In 1880 James Weighton Reilly was born.
In 1898 he enlisted with the British Troops in India to
fight the Boers in Africa. He landed in Durban under
General Sir-William Penn-Symons, who was the first British
General to be killed in the Boer War. After being seriously
wounded with a shattered shoulder blade. Reilly recovered
to take up duties with Steinackers Horse. This border
regiment patrolled the Lubombo Mountains between Komatipoort
and the Great Usuthu River in the south. It also ranged
far and wide over the surrounding countryside to keep
German weaponry, landed at Lorenco Marques (now Maputo)
from reaching the Boers in the Transvaal. Reilly, a young
Irishman of adventurous spirit was in the detachment,
which took Bremersdorp (now Manzini) from the Boers.
Colonel Steinaker, a German of diminutive size (he
was 5' 1'' in his boots), was probably the British
army's most irregular commanding officer, but he managed
somehow to persuade the Brits to give him command of
a force of 300 men to patrol the Lubombo region of
the Eastern Lowveld. Steinaker saw himself as the ''Napoleon''
of the lowveld, which role he certainly acted out to
the full. Steinaker had many' detractors but let no
man feel disgraced for serving in Steinakers Horse
for, through Steinaker gathered around him a contingent
of mounted hunters, chanters, adventurers and fortune
seekers, among them were some of the most accomplished
and finest shots in Africa, with scouting and bush
skills not easily matched anywhere in the world.
Of Steinaker a story is told where he swaggered into
the pub at Komatijoort and drawing both his pistols
he fired six shots from each of them into the ceiling.
Only two holes were visible in the ceiling above and
the crowd gave way in awe at this remarkable marksmanship.
Only Colonel Steinaker knew that his six-guns each
had one loaded bullet - the remaining five cartridge
chambers in each gun were loaded with blanks!
After the Boer War of 1899 - 1902, and after losing
his horse to African Horse Sickness, Mickey Reilly,
as he had become known, walked into Swaziland from
Barberton possessing only the clothes that he was wearing
to start a surprisingly successful career as a tin
miner. The Reilly fortunes, and these apparently included
vast estates in Ireland and tea plantations in India
and in Ceylon (now Sri Lanka), had been given to the
church. For this, and for being the chosen son to take
Holy orders at the Vatican instead of a promised Cambridge
education, Mickey Reilly never forgave his father;
He rebelled, left home and rejected the Catholic Church
to his dying day. He taught his children the difference
between right and wrong and between good and bad and
that was the extent of religion in the Reilly household.
He always said his children could choose their own
religions when they were old enough!
Mickey Reilly was remarkably resourceful and successful
in Swaziland. With entrepreneurial skills, he managed
the McCreedy tin mine and purchased land which he faulted.
It is this land which fifty years later became Swaziland's
first wildlife sanctuary. He managed the McCreedy Tin
Mine in Swaziland for Sir Abe Bailey of the Eastern
Transvaal Consolidated Mines Ltd. McCreedy himself
had wandered off and disappeared. Year’s later
McCreedy's signet ring was found in a large crocodile
which was shot on the great Usuthu River.
Reilly built his home (a mud hut) on Mlilwane hill
in 1908. It was struck and
gutted by lightning. He built his second home, also
a mud hut, a little further down the hill. This too
was struck and demolished by lightning. ''Mlilwane”,
literally translated, means ''little-fire ''; this
alludes to lightning strikes that frequently started
fires on this hill, so giving rise to its Swazi name.
Reilly
built his third home of wood and iron - this time
lower down the hill - and, now hopefully, beyond
the reach of lightning.
After the First World War in 1914-18, Mickey Reilly
was approached by a man named Moolman - an illiterate
Afrikaner who couldn't even read the figures on a footrule.
Moolman said to Reilly – “You’re
going to needing a house; - I need an ox-wagon. You
buy me a wagon and I’ll build you a
house.'' The deal was closed. The wagon cost 80 pounds,
which was an awful lot of money in those days, and
the house took several years to build. Time was of
little importance in the early 19th Century but Mickey
Reilly didn't make it any easier for Moolman when he
insisted that the house be built of stone - and that
it be built around his wood and iron shack, which was
later dismantled and cleared through the front door
when his new home was completed!
Reilly’s Rock had its beginnings from this early “horse
deal''. Rocks were fetched from far and wide to build
the Reilly home. By sledge, by wagon and by hand-held
stretcher, each rock was carried to site where Moolman
placed them one upon another using mud as mortar, and
so creating the magnificent monument Reilly's Rock
has now become. A visiting British Parliamentarian
once remarked that the skill and finish of the old
stonework resembled some of the old stonework of 14
and 15th century England.
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Reilly's Rock Today |
There is no doubt that Reilly received more than fair
exchange in the solid
stonework and the long verandahs of Reilly’s
Rock - a hilltop site which is as great a part of Swaziland
history as the remarkable family who, for a century,
have called it home, and who brought the concept of
Nature Conservation to this tiny African Kingdom, establishing
Parks and even restoring 22 different species of larger
wild animals to Swaziland after they had gone locally
extinct.
Mickey Reilly married Billy Springle in l 924 and
brought her to his home of rock, where for years she
was the only white woman between Mbabane and Bremersdorp.
For half a century, she lived her life here in paradise
as the wife of the most popular and most colourful
white man in Swaziland.
Mickey Reilly was remarkably versatile. The first
electric light to light up the night in Swaziland was
installed at Mlilwane with a 52.5 Kva hydro turbine
driven generator. Reilly later installed this plant
on the Mbabane River, below where the Swazi Inn was
later built, to supply Mbabane with lights. He subsequently
sold it to Mercer Cox, who then sold it to the Swaziland
Government. Mickey Reilly brought electricity to Bremersdorp
also, where he created a roaring trade selling single
light points to the town and in particular to the families
Howe and Stewart whose rivalry caused them to compete
with each other so escalating hot only the price of-electricity,
but also the number of light points sold!
Mickey Reilly's sojourn here was at a time when there
was no shortage of land – no shortage of natural
resources and little respect for the environment, which
had to be tamed and exploited. A time when Britain
ruled and Britain needed raw materials. Tin was an
essential resource for war materials and during both
World Wars, tin miners were not conscripted - they
had to feed the Allied war machine.
Tin was mined with water and Reilly soon developed
a remarkable skill in hydrology. He became known as
the water wizard of Swaziland and was reputed even
able to defy the laws of gravity by making water flow
up hill! !
Tin, technically known as cassiterite, occurs in the
pegmatities, which are in an advanced stage of decomposition
at Mlilwane. The ore-bearing soil is channelled with
a flow of water through sluice boxes, which are simply
long boxes 24 to 30 inches wide and up to 20 feet long,
comprising a base, two sides and an open top. The base
is stepped and the ore-bearing soil is passed through
the boxes with the help of the flowing of water. The
muddy mixture is agitated with gravel forks and spades
by a team of men as it passes down the sluice box.
The tin (occurring in crystals varying in size from
that of a woman's fist to dust) being heavy, sinks
to the tailor and is caught by the steps. The lighter
soil and other materials are washed over the steps
and away. Ilmanite (iron) was the main impurity but
this, unlike tin, is magnetic and easily separated
by a magnetic separation.
In the beginning, men dug the soil with picks and
shovels, carrying it to the stream where the sluice
box was positioned. But to step up production, Machobane,
as - Mickey Reilly was known to the Swazis, asked for
a budget to construct his Mhlambanyatsi water-way,
whose source would be on the Mhlambanyatsi River up
in the mountains near where Mhlambanyatsi Village is
now located, and the Company sent down their engineer
with a couple of directors from Johannesburg to assess
the feasibility of his proposal. They took one look
at the indicated route through the mountains and laughed
it off as madness! Machobane had a big labour gang -
he was the largest employer of men in Swaziland at
the time - and he borrowed from this as many men as
he could spare from time to time from his tin workings
and started the construction of the “impossible” 271km
long water furrow. A year or so later, when tin yields
suddenly rocketed, the directors in Johannesburg became
excited and thought Reilly had found the “Mother
Load'' of tin. They came down to investigate and found
the impossible aqueduct in use!!
Reilly had a problem in getting his tin across the
Usushwana river which lay between him and his market.
He unsuccessfully tried to persuade the government
to bridge the river on the main Manzini Mbabane road.
After repeated pleas for help which fell on deaf ears
he built a pont and levied a fee of 2 shillings and
sixpence to all government officials who used it. This
was strictly enforced by 2 loyal burly Swazis! All
non government servants had free float across the river!
Huge indignation followed and resulted in the government
paying Reilly out for his pont and eventually constructing
the old Baily Bridge, which now spans the river at
Mantenga. Thereafter Reilly's tin had much easier passage
to market!
Reillys Rock has been added to over the years - the
additions, also cast in stone – are differently
styled to Moolman's original hand hewn masterpiece,
but they blend with the ancient look of the original
homestead.
And the views! They are stunning! Reilly 's Rock enjoys
a commanding position in the Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary,
Swaziland's pioneer conservation area. Game and birdlife
are an integral part of its setting. More than 75 bird
species can be counted from the verandah. The exquisitely
furnished interiors with hand-carved hardwood furniture
and antique fittings, compete only with the privileged
view which every secluded garden terrace and walkway
enjoys. To the east, a very striking range of mountains
of blue granite lies across the plains below. These
are the Mdzimba Mountains, which in former times Billie
Reilly referred to as her ''garden wall''. Alas, not
so anymore, with the sea of development and rural sprawl
which now starts halfway across the plain from the
Park boundary to the Mountain. This sprawl has already
encroached the foothills and is climbing higher up
the slopes of the mountain day by day. But, mercifully,
and thanks to Dr Anton- Rupert, half the plain below
is protected within the boundary of Mlilwane and the
large herds of-wildebeest, zebra, blesbuck, impala
and warthog can be seen in occupation there from the
verandah and terraces of Reilly's Rock, while nyala,
kudu and a wealth of birdlife inhabit the slopes of
Mlilwane hill. Where once not long ago, a single pair
of car lights occasionally appeared on the Bremersdorp-Mbabane
road in the distance below, now the entire valley beyond
the Park boundary is lit up with a continuous blaze
of lights between these two cities.
It was also across these grassland plains that another
old pioneer used to find his way home in an old steam
driven car. Buchanin was his name. And in Winter when
the grass was tinder dry, his car set the veld alight
as far as he went with sparks spewing skywards and
burning coals falling from the stoking-oven every time
he hit a bump. Whenever he crossed a stream or even
in heavy rain the engine fire was doused and the engine
died ! He sometimes said it would have been quicker
to walk!
The Reilly family has decided to share this natural
remnant of Paradise and has decided to share this natural
remnant of Paradise and has opened it to National tourism.
The atmosphere of Reilly's Rock is unique and the maturity
of it lends a priceless agelessness to this “out
of Africa” experience. The barking of the zebras
on the plains below, the grunting of the impala rams
contesting their territories, and the raucous call
of the 'gwalagwala ' (Purple Crested Lourie) leave
one in no doubt that this is Africa.
As much as the ingenious Reilly espoused Colonial
interests, so have his son and family committed their
lives to preserving the Swazi natural heritage. Beginning
with the proclamation of Mlilwane, the family farm
and Swaziland's pioneer conservation area, the Reillys
have since 1961 contributed National Parks to the face
of the country and shared in the Nation's joy at again
being able to see lions and elephants and rhinos roaming
wild in Swaziland once more. Indeed they have restored
twenty two species of larger game to the Kingdom after
these had become locally extinct at the hand of man.
For 40 years the Reilly family has, with dedication
and loyalty, served the Royal House of Swaziland in
the field of Nature Conservation - And indeed has also
enjoyed the total support of the Monarch with whom
a long rich and productive relationship has made Nature
Conservation in Swazi land so successful.
Reilly 's Rock, has an affinity with Nature and a
kinship with all life. More about Reilly's Rock Accommodation
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